STRAIGHTENING DENTS WITHOUT PAINTING
Car dent straightening without painting is a set of special procedures to help remove various dents or dings from your car, anywhere on the bodywork. The technology used to do this allows it to be done without repainting, sanding, priming or any other similar body work.
Why should I?
WORK PROGRESS: Markless repairs
- Preparing the car for work, washing it if necessary 0.5 hours
- Internal finishes are dismantled if necessary 0.5 - 3 hours
- Paintless dent repair for small dents 0.5 - 3 hours
- Medium dent repair with paintless dent repair 1 - 4 hours
- Repair of large dents by paintless dent repair 2 - 20 hours
- Repairing ice hail damage by markless repair 1-14 days
- Installation of internal parts (if dismantled) 0.5 - 3 hours
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Smoothing dents on the car body without painting Paintless Dent Repair ("PDR") is the removal of various dents in the body of a car without the need for puttying, priming, sanding or painting. This way, your car's paintwork remains original, saving you valuable time and, of course, money.
The cost of repairs depends on the size and location of the dents on the car's bodywork. We can only tell you the exact price after we've inspected the dent, but it's usually two or three times less than the cost of sealing and repainting the part. The price is based on the number of dents on one part, and smoothing each subsequent dent on one part costs less.
The car is usually fixed the same day. Most very minor dents can be repaired within an hour. Larger dents can take up to four to five hours to straighten. Repairing a car after a hailstorm usually takes about two days. We'll tell you the exact time after we've inspected the dents.
There are currently three methods for markerless repairs:
-Internal method: special tools are used to straighten dents. These tools are used to gently "massage" the car's sheet metal and pull it away from the wrong side.
-External method: special hot melt adhesives are used which do not damage the painted surface. Special holders are glued to the surface and pulled out with a back hammer. The resulting excess is hammered off using special tools.
-Electromagnetic method: this is more of an auxiliary method, which involves the contraction of the over-darkened metal, with devices operating externally and internally.
It is a job that requires great care, attention and good skills. There are various approaches to denting: dents on car doors can be accessed through the opening in the lowered door glass or other factory frame openings; dents on a car wing can be accessed through the gap in the fender or by removing the car's headlight; dents on the roof of a car can be accessed by removing the roof trim. In some cases, the door (or other part) trim must be removed.
Dents are straightened on both steel and aluminium surfaces. Dents on aluminium surfaces are much more difficult to repair and the cost of the repair is therefore higher.
In many cases, damage to plastic is not repaired by the paintless method. But dents that are smooth - without sharp irregularities - can also be repaired by paintless dent repair. In this case, additional heating and special tools for bumper repair are used.
No heating or cooling is used during the straightening process, so there is no risk to the original paint finish. Many customers ask do we use heating - cooling, magnets or vacuum to straighten dents? If you ask - we will most likely answer YES. For time saving reasons it is easier to accept the customer's knowledge. Heating can be used for defrosting in winter and also with hot glue. The only place the vacuum is used is to attach the lamp to the bodywork. Magnet... Think logically about how big a magnet is needed to pull out a dent. We can suggest watching a funny film about the magnet. Thus, neither of these methods involves straightening the dents, as the dents do not undo themselves.
Many of the small dents that appear can be straightened:
- In car parks, carelessly opening the door of a car parked next to you can dent your car door or wing;
- the roof, bonnet or boot lid is dented in hail;
- in the event of a minor accident;
- Otherwise, where there is no damage to the car's paintwork.
It is usually (but not always) impossible to perfectly repair dents such as:
- sharp and too deep dents when the tin is overstretched;
- Older vehicles (20 years and older), as the car's paint and varnish are no longer elastic and do not allow for quality repairs;
- dents in areas of the car body that are reinforced with double sheeting, such as the corners of the doors and the edges of the bonnet and boot lid;
- dents closer than 1cm to the edge of the car part;
- other areas where the paint is damaged (cracked or chipped).